Brake & Clutch pipes - Pt 5

As mentioned in the last brake pipe post I may have to re-do one of the pipes due to the fuel pipe run. Now that I have now pretty much sorted the fuel pipe run this did indeed mean that I had to re-do the nearside rear brake pipe. This was only a short pipe and took only a short time to do but all now clears and I am happy with the result.

The new pipe runs above the fuel pipe (a short length of coper is shown clamped wheel the pipe will run)

The brake pipes are now complete apart from the short runs to the master cylinder. These will be done when the body is on maybe later this year depending how I get on with engine build and installation.

I also decided to change all of the fixings I was using to fasten the pipe clamps from stainless button head screws to grade 10.9 zinc plated button head screws. I was finding that the hex socket in the stainless ones was stripping a little to easily when trying torquing up. Rather sort now than when the car is complete and I find I can't get in there and the head strips. All fixings have spring washers and thread lock. Not only does this stop the screws from vibrating loose the threads are sealed into the chassis as well.

Fuel line - Pt 2

Finally now I have had a little time to get back out in the garage a fit the now painted fuel pipe and fuel tank permanently (at least for now!). I spent a lot of time de-burring the connections of the tank and then attempted to get all those little bits out rather than just catching them all in the filter. After hafl an hour or so I finally gave up realising that I was just not going to be able to get them all accepting that I would have to change the filter sooner than hoped.

Forward part of the pipe

Rear connection to tank well clear of all bolts.

New nearside brake pipe formed and fitted

Now I have thought about removing/cleaning the filter I have decided to change the connection to the front of the filter. I am going to change it to an APS anodised fitting to make removal that much easier. Still need to order the parts so this will be done a little later.

Fuel line - Part 1

With the brake and clutch lines completes as far as I can for now the next thing was to start looking at is the fuel line. As far as I can see the normal route on an AK is to run it under the diff and then route it along the inner face of the nearside chassis rail (for Ford anyway) with the fuel filter as close to the rear as you can get as the transmission tunnel area widens just before the diff mounting plate.

I have seen many routings under the diff that are very well done with a suitable guard but this route has always bothered me as the fuel line is then the lowest thing under the car and there is a risk of grounding on the guard. I spent quite a while reading through various build blogs and eventually posted a question about this on the UK Cobra Club Forum recently. I got a few replies (thanks to all) and there was one who has done what I was hoping to do and this was Steve and he very kindly added photos of his route on http://stevesakcobrabuild.blogspot.com, Nov 2015. This means that the fuel pipe is then completely within the height of the chassis and pretty much fully protected (the only area on minor concern is at the fuel outlet from the tank. May still need a much smaller guard here!). I will be able to secure the pipe by using either one of the diff cover bolts or the tie bar bolt adding a small bracket and then also adjacent to the diff with a clamp on top of the chassis rail.

I've realised that this does mean however that I will have to re-do the nearside rear brake pipe but no worries, this is just a short length.

Anyway The first thing I decided to do was to sort the position of the fuel filter. This will be on a small bracket bolted to the chassis. The bracket is slightly angled to help the 'run' of the pipe.

Filter and stainless bracket

For the part from the tank to the filter I'm using 10mm copper pipe. The route is pretty tortuous but actually proved quite satisfying when all bent to shape although it took several goes to get it right (including the kinked one!! last but one bend). The copper pipe is supplied 'coiled' so has to be straightened by hand! This a slow laborious process unless you purchase yet another pipe straightener but I'm not going to spend the money on that! Hopefully I shan't need to do it again (but I did!!!)

Version 2 finished & ready for soldering so I thought!

Kinked! Last but one bend. Another opportunity!

Version 3 ready for last bits to be soldered

3mm stainless bracket to fix to tie-bar bolt

From tank past tie-bar to bracket

Under diff body well away from the drive shaft flange

Painted and ready for fitting

The pipe from the tank will be fitted when I have sorted fuel sender and when the tank is flushed and finally fitted permanently (at least that is the plan).

I have now run the braided hose from the filter up to the engine mount area. Still need to determine exactly where this needs to be fastened for the pump in my case an Edelbrock Performer RPM Street Fuel Pump 110gph mechanical unit (EDL 1725).

Braided hose run so far