Fuel Fillers

I like symmetry in most things I do so that also includes the filler caps, even though there's the additional cost, its the look I want.

Like many, I am using those supplied by Brasscraft. They look great and are a lovely bit of quality engineering.

I decided early on that I was going to fasten these from below which makes it very much easier to get them in exactly the position I want without having to screw the top half on after the base is screwed down.

The first thing I did was to carefully tape up all the shiny areas that I wanted to remain shiny!

I then drilled and tapped using the pilot holes on the reverse of the base as the required position.

Next it was time to start positioning on the body, making sure that in the chosen position as suggested in the AK manual, all was OK and that the top could fly open and not hit the bodywork on use.

Suitably marked it was then time to start making holes.

After drilling the correct size hole for the neck it was then just a question of transposing the holes from the base through to the body, having first checked that all was correctly aligned.

The only thing left to do now is to cut the 12 screws to length and fasten in position.

Just remembered. I also need to sort out the tank breather to the filler. No matter that will get sorted later.

Reversing and Rear Fog light

Personally I have never liked lights bolted to the outside of the body. I like them nice and flush, recessed and blended. Some may say that this is wrong for a Cobra but this is my version and I'll do what I want 😀.

I spent a long time looking for lights that I liked and that I thought would fit into the rear of my cobra and within the nudge bars too.

Eventually I noticed the Mini R50 reverse light and found that it was also available as fog light too. I purchased an old mini rear bumber fro a breakers and started to make a couple of moulds to recess the lights. I had to have 2 different moulds as they are effectively mirrired about the centre line of the body.

First I made a copy of the rear valance in the areas I was going to place the lights.

Then I took a mould from the inner form of the light cavity in silicone having filled all the holes and gaps to make sure it didn't run everywhere.

The stick is there to hold down a piece of packing to save the amount of silicone I needed.

 After that was done I made the reverse mound again in silicone ready to cast the solid plug that would be bonded to the pattern of the rear valance.

First plug cast in tooling resin

Bonded to the copy of the rear valance.

Both parts ready to be filled and fettled to complet the patterns

Finished patterns parts look like this. They were actually highly polished but I forgot to take a photo!

Now for moulding in glass. The patterns were heavily waxed with 6 of 7 coats of Mirror Glaze realease wax and then covered with fibre glass.

Trial fitting the reversing light.

The next thing to do is to cutout the body and let in the mouldings. So after carefully measuring, checking, marking and then cutting I could start the process of fitting them.

With all the holes cut in the rear valance and boot floor (I will have to notch and weld the rear frame a little before final body fitting) I could start making the inner cover. As before I have made a small parrent of the bulge and then made a mould from that and the area of the boot floor where they fit.

Fitting the light mount mouldings.

Under the floor and boot all glassed in.

Both lights installed. Must say that I am really pleased with how they look. Just got the inside finish.

The inner covers will be permanently fitted later to provide a water tight seal.

Clutch pipe update

I forgot to add this to the history so better late than never.

I initially ran all the brake pipes and clutch pipe quite early on in the chassis part of the build. It was midway through last year when I realised that the latest AK Gen III rolling chassis appeared to have a larger size clutch pipe. I had a quick chat with Jon and he confirmed this. Great!

I managed to find 1/4" copper pipe fairly easily but fixings were another matter, let alone a flexi as all brake/clutch flexi's in those lovey colours are all 3/16". Finally I contacted Speedflow (www.speedflow.co.uk) and they were happy to make a 1/4" (dash 4 hose) teflon flexi for me.

Re-running the pipe was relatively straight forward apart from the face that all the pipe hangers were for 3/16" pipe which meant I had to enlarge them a little.

I had to replace the 3/16" bulkhead fitting with a 1/4" substitute. Fortunately I was able to enlarge the hole in the bracket just enough for the larger bulkhead to fit.

New bulkhead fitting

New pipe all fitted and clipped in place

Parcel from Speedflow. All parts to connect the 1/4" flexi from the new 1/4" pipe onto the banjo port on the clutch cylinder 

Chassis pipe end of the flexi connection

Done

Moving!

Never a good idea at the best of times but halfway through a car build!!!

Still. All went really well. Obviously the garage and car were all packed up first. Priorities and all that :).

I had a Luton van filled with all my garage stuff and tools engine hoist etc. This, along with the car were transported a few days before the actual move date as we had access to the garages early as this is a new build. Very useful that was too.

This meant that I had to put the body on a little earlier than I had wanted too so it will have to come off again but still, needs must.

Body ready to be assembled

Rolling chassis

The happy crew. Couldn't have done it without you.

So relieved. Everything lines up as hoped.

Roll bar mount

Roll bar mount

Fuel filler, breather and fuel sender hole

Fuel filler

Gearbox lever hole

Back in garage before the big day

Car on its way. So many bits in the cockpit and boot..