Tuesday, 12 July 2016

Handbrake Mech - Pt 3

I finally found the time to start looking at the mod to the chassis to fit the 'pulley' setup for the revised handbrake mechanism. I was a bit concerned about drilling trhough the plate as the position is a bit tight to get at. I had no need to worry as all went really well from the start.

I carefully covered everything that I didn't want to be covered with swarf and then started to drill a pilot hole of 4mm As soon as it was a couple of millimeters deep I carefully rotated the drill to the correct angle to line up with the groove in the pulley and completed the hole.

This was then followed with a 20mm diameter hole saw which had its own pilot of 8mm diameter. As before i started the drill and after a few mm aligned it with the 4mm pilot hole. This made getting it all aligned a little easier. I had to be very careful as the hole saw started to cut into the plate as it was just a one sided cut so all had to progress slowly and carefully. The hole saw atr through the chassis plate much better than hoped and I have ended up with a pretty tight hole for the adapter tube.

Next I had to cut the slot for the cable. This was a labouious job and painfully slow. I ended up chain drilling a 4mm hole and using the drill as a slot drill to join all the holes up. Filing the slot was also really slow as access is tricky. Still got a little to do to make all smooth and straight (I'm a bit OCD as all has to be true and straight!).

Template added to chassis. Looks tight!!!
Drilling with the 20mm diameter hole saw. All covered.
Hole completed.
Slot added. Now just to angle and clean up.

Only thing's to do now is to weld in the adapter, clean up and repaint the whole area.

On the whole I am really pleased with the progress, just need to get that welder!!!

Monday, 11 July 2016

Engine - Pt 2

After the initial set back of the first block being cracked I got the second block back fully machined with no further issues. I had all my machining done by Dave at Dave's American Machine Shop over in Hinckley and a very good job he did too.

Dave initially measured the block to see what how it stood before machining. He then proceeded to machine the deck height and square up the head faces to the bores. The bores were then machined to +0.030" taking the bore to 4.030" and with stroked crankshaft I will now have a 347 up from a 302 as standard. After machining and honing the bores he tapped the smaller core plug holes for better sealing. Following this he chemically cleaned the block and when rinsed and dried he inserted new cam bearings. He also provided a full core plug kit for me which I will fit in due course.

When I got the block back home the first thing I did was to clean it again as I wanted to get all necessary areas painted. I've decided to paint the block in a neutral colour, that being a graphite engine enamel. This needed several sprayed coats and I am really happy with how it looks. Dave also advised me to paint the inside of the block particularly the area below the intake manifold and each end as well. This really helps with oil drain back to the sump. He uses good old Wilco red oxide primer and then follows this with a couple coats of their red tile paint. I've duly taken his advice and all looks good.

Block 2 at collection - image 1
Block 2 at collection - image 2
Midway through red oxide priming
Completed block. I'm really pleased with the result

I guess what I should have done is given you the specification (so far!) of what I am building, a bit out of order but here goes:-

  • Small block Ford 302 bored and stroked to 347;
  • Scat Series 9000 Cast Pro Comp Stroker Lightweight Crankshaft 9-302-3400-5400-2123;
  • SBF 28oz Fluidamper 6 5/8" FLU650211;
  • Scat Pro Stock I-Beam Floating Pin Connecting Rods 2-ICR5400-927;
  • Keith Black KB Performance Pistons KB246030-8;
  • Clevite main and rod bearings;
  • COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshaft 35-518-8;
  • Ford Racing Fuel Pump Eccentric M-6287-B302;
  • Melling Camshaft Thrust Plates MF126;
  • Lunati Street Performance Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Lifters 72335-16;
  • Harland Sharp Original Roller Rockers S4102 Ratio 1.6:1;
  • Cylinder heads AFR 165cc/185cc/195cc SBF Renegade 20 Degree Street/Strip 1388;
  • Pushrods will be supplied by Peter Knight Racing TBC;
  • Edelbrock Performer Carburettor 600cfm 14064;
  • Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake Manifold 71214;
  • Ford Racing Timing Chain Set M-6268-A302;
  • Edelbrock Victor Series Mechanical Water Pumps 88414;
  • MSD 6AL Ignition system MSD-6425;
  • Distributor MSD-84791;
  • Ignition coil MSD-8200;
  • ARP headstud kit ARP-254-4405;
  • ARP Main Bolt set ARP-154-5001;
  • FelPro gaskets througout;
  • Miloden oilpan MIL-31600, larger capacity same depth as standard;
  • Miloden oil pump pickup MIL-18485;
  • Melling oil pump MEL-M68;
  • Melling oil pump drive shaft MEL-IS-68;
  • Single piece rear main seal FEL-2922RS;
  • Transmission TKO600 with upgrade to McLeod RST twin plate clutch;
I'm sure that there will be more parts (no doubt I've forgotten a whole load and will need to order more!) but I will update as I progress forward.


Back to where I was....

I sent all of the rotating parts out dynamic balancing and I'm pleased to say that all went well with little work needing to be done. All in the balancing was able to be done internally (mainly on the crankshaft counter balance weights. Pistons and rods also had a little fettling as well.

All the parts ready for balancing.
The parts that went for balancing were as follows:-

  • Crankshaft;
  • Con-rods;
  • Pistons and pins (now matched);
  • Clutch assembly and bolts;
  • Flywheel and bolts;
  • Damper;
  • Piston rings, big end bearings and gudgeon pin wire locks were needed for weights;
As they say 'that's all for now' on the engine front. I'll start the engine build in earnest after the fuel pipe and handbrake mods are completed.